Everything You’ll Need
Tool Checklist: Ceramic vs. Porcelain Tile
| Tool / Material | Ceramic Tile | Porcelain Tile | Purpose |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tape Measure | ✔ | ✔ | Measure room size and tile space |
| Chalk Line | ✔ | ✔ | Mark center and layout lines |
| Straight Edge | ✔ | ✔ | Guide straight cuts and lines |
| Pry Bar | ✔ | ✔ | Remove baseboards or old floors |
| Spacers | ✔ | ✔ | Keep grout spaces even |
| Notched Trowel | ✔ | ✔ | Spread mortar on the floor evenly |
| Mixing Paddle & Drill | ✔ | ✔ | Mix mortar and grout |
| Wet Saw or Tile Cutter | ✔ | ✔ | Cut tiles for edges and corners |
| Utility Knife | ✔ | ✔ | Trim underlayment or cut backer board |
| Level | ✔ | ✔ | Keep tiles even and flat |
| Grout Float | ✔ | ✔ | Press grout into joints |
| Bucket & Sponge | ✔ | ✔ | Clean tiles and remove grout haze |
| Knee Pads | ✔ | ✔ | Protect knees during work |
| Safety Glasses | ✔ | ✔ | Protect eyes during cutting |
| Gloves | ✔ | ✔ | Protect hands from sharp edges |
| Cement Backer Board (if needed) | ✔ | ✔ | Support and stabilize tiles |
Optional (But Helpful):
| Tool / Material | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Rubber Mallet | Tap tiles gently into place |
| Tile Nippers | Make small cuts or corners |
| Grout Sealer | Seal grout lines to protect them |
Step 1: Prepare the Space
Take Off Baseboards and Old Floors
Begin by taking off any baseboards and old floors to see the subfloor. This makes a clean, flat area for putting down new tile.
Use a pry bar to gently remove the baseboards without hurting the walls. If you need to take out carpet, laminate, or vinyl, cut them into small pieces and get rid of any adhesive. For old tile, use a hammer and chisel or a floor scraper to take away the tiles and mortar.
Clean the Subfloor Well
Sweep and vacuum the subfloor to remove all dust, dirt, and trash. A clean surface helps the mortar stick properly and avoids flaws in your new floor.
Check for Damage or Moisture
Look at the subfloor for cracks, holes, or uneven spots. Use a level to find dips or high areas.
- Cracks or holes: Fill them with a patching compound.
- Uneven spots: Use a floor leveling compound to make a flat, solid base.
If working on concrete, check for moisture with a moisture meter. High moisture can cause tile or grout problems, so fix any moisture issues before continuing.
Put in Underlayment or Cement Backer Board (if needed)
Depending on your subfloor type:
- Wood subfloors: Put in cement backer board for a strong, water-resistant base.
- Concrete subfloors: Often don’t need underlayment, but a crack isolation membrane or waterproofing membrane might be suggested in some cases.
Secure backer board panels following manufacturer instructions, using the right screws and leaving gaps between panels.
Step 2: Plan Your Tile Layout
Find the Room’s Center and Draw Guidelines
Start by finding the room’s center. Measure the middle of each wall and use chalk to draw lines across the floor. Where the lines meet is where you start placing tiles. This helps your tiles look even and neat.
Select Your Tile Pattern
If you’re new to tiling, choose simple patterns:
- Straight Lay (Grid Pattern): Tiles line up with the walls, making neat rows.
- Diagonal (Diamond Pattern): Tiles are placed at a 45-degree angle, creating a more lively look—it’s a bit harder but doable.
Note: Complex patterns like herringbone or chevron are tough and not good for beginners.
Dry-Fit Tiles for Alignment Check
Lay some tiles without glue (this is called dry-fitting). This lets you:
- Check if tiles line up right.
- See how they fit with walls or doorways.
- Adjust to avoid small tile pieces at edges, which can crack easily.
Use Spacers for Even Grout Lines
Put spacers between tiles while dry-fitting to get even grout lines. Common sizes are 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch, based on tile size and style.
Calculate Tile Amount (Add 10–15% Extra)
Find the room’s square footage (length × width). Then:
- Multiply the total by 1.10 (for basic layouts) or 1.15 (for diagonal or tricky rooms) to cover cuts, errors, and repairs.
- Order this amount to make sure you have enough tiles.
Step 3: Choose Your Installation Method
For most tile flooring jobs, especially big ones, thinset mortar is the best way to install. It keeps the tiles strongly attached to the floor.
Common Methods:
- Thinset Mortar (Recommended)
This cement-based glue works great for floor tiles. It handles weight, wetness, and changes in temperature well. Most people use thinset because it lasts long and is reliable. - Tile Adhesive (Mastic)
Good for small DIY areas or wall tiles in dry places. It’s easier to use but not strong enough for most floor jobs or wet places.
Note: For floor tiles, thinset is usually the best and safest option.
| Installation Method | Best For | Strength & Durability | DIY Friendliness | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thinset Mortar | Floor tiles, wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens), large spaces | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (Excellent) | Moderate | Standard for tile floors. Handles wetness, weight, and movement. |
| Tile Adhesive (Mastic) | Small dry areas, wall tiles | ⭐⭐ (Limited) | Easy | Not good for floor tiles or wet areas. Quicker to apply but not as strong. |
Step 4: Mix Mortar and Apply to Subfloor
Mix the Mortar
First, mix the thinset mortar by following the instructions on the package. Use a clean bucket and a drill with a mixing paddle to make it smooth and without lumps. Let it sit for a few minutes, then mix it again before using.
Spread the Mortar
Take a notched trowel and spread the mortar evenly on a small part of the subfloor. Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to make even ridges. These ridges help the tile stick well and ensure the correct depth for a flat installation.
Work in Small Sections
Only spread mortar on as much area as you can tile in about 10–15 minutes. This stops the mortar from drying out before you place the tiles.
Pro Tip:
For bigger tiles, over 12 inches, apply a thin layer of mortar on the back of the tile for better sticking.
Step 5: Lay the First Tiles
Starting the right way helps the whole project.
Start at the Center
Use your chalk lines to begin at the room’s center or main point. This makes sure tiles spread out evenly.
Place the First Tile
Put the first tile in the mortar. Press it hard and twist a bit to make it stick.
Use Spacers
Put spacers between tiles to keep gaps the same for grout. This gives a neat finish.
Check for Level
After a few tiles, use a level to make sure it’s even. Fix it before the mortar dries.
Tip:
Work in small parts so the mortar stays wet until tiles are placed!
Step 6: Cutting Tiles to Fit
Accurate cutting is key for a polished, professional-looking finish.
Measure and Mark
Use a tape measure to determine the size of the tile piece you need. Mark the cutting line clearly with a pencil or wax pencil.
Choose the Right Tool
For straight cuts, a manual tile cutter works well.
For curved or intricate cuts, use a wet saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade.
Cut in a Safe Area
Always make cuts outdoors or in a well-ventilated space to avoid dust buildup. Wear safety glasses and gloves for protection.
Pro Tip:
Measure twice before cutting to reduce waste and ensure a perfect fit!
Step 7: Install Remaining Tiles and Let Mortar Cure
Once the first tiles are set, continue laying the remaining tiles row by row. Work outward from your starting point, placing each tile carefully with spacers to maintain uniform grout lines. Regularly check that tiles are level and adjust as needed to prevent uneven surfaces.
As you progress, avoid walking on newly set tiles to prevent shifting. Work in manageable sections to ensure the mortar doesn’t dry out before tiles are placed.
After all tiles are installed, allow the mortar to cure for at least 24 hours (or as recommended by the manufacturer) before proceeding to grout. Proper curing is essential for a durable and long-lasting tile floor.
Step 8: Apply Grout
Once the mortar has fully cured, it’s time to grout the joints between the tiles:
Mix the Grout
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to mix the grout to a smooth, peanut butter-like consistency.Spread Grout Using a Float
Use a rubber grout float held at a 45° angle to spread the grout across the tile surface. Press firmly to ensure the grout fills all the joints completely.Remove Excess Grout
After filling the joints, hold the float at a steep angle and scrape away excess grout from the tile surfaces.Clean the Tiles with a Damp Sponge
Wait about 10 to 15 minutes, then use a damp sponge to gently wipe the tile surfaces clean. Rinse the sponge frequently and avoid removing grout from the joints.Final Buffing
Once the grout begins to haze on the tile (after another 30–60 minutes), use a dry microfiber cloth to buff the surface and remove any remaining haze.
Step 9: Clean and Seal the Floor
Remove Grout Haze
After the grout has dried (usually 24 to 48 hours), a hazy residue will appear on the tile surfaces. Use a damp sponge or specialized grout haze remover to gently clean the tiles. Be careful not to disturb the grout lines.
Apply Grout Sealer
If recommended by the grout manufacturer, apply a grout sealer to protect the grout from moisture, stains, and mold. Use a small applicator brush or a sealer bottle with a roller tip for precision. Allow the sealer to cure fully according to the product instructions.
Reinstall Baseboards and Transition Strips
Once everything is clean and dry, reinstall your baseboards and add any necessary transition strips between different flooring types or rooms. This gives your new tile floor a polished, professional finish.
DIY vs. Professional Tile Installation
While installing tile flooring yourself can save money, it’s not always the right choice for every project. Here’s how to decide if DIY or hiring a pro is best for you.
DIY Pros
- Lower upfront cost
- Flexibility to work at your own pace
- Great for small, simple rooms (bathrooms, laundry rooms)
DIY Cons
- Requires time, precision, and specialized tools
- Mistakes can lead to costly repairs
- Challenging for complex layouts or large spaces
Professional Installation Pros
- Expert precision and long-lasting results
- Faster completion, especially for large areas
- Includes subfloor preparation, cutting, and cleanup
- Warranties often included
Professional Installation Cons
- Higher upfront cost
- Less control over timeline
Cost Comparison
Here’s what you can typically expect to pay:
| Installation Type | Average Cost per Sq Ft | Typical Total for 250 Sq Ft |
|---|---|---|
| DIY Installation | $2 – $8 (materials + rental tools) | $500 – $2,000 |
| Professional Installation | $8 – $25 | $2,000 – $6,250 |
👉 For a full breakdown, check out our Tile Flooring Cost Guide.
Pro Tips for a Successful Tile Flooring Installation
Want to get pro-level results from your DIY tile project? Keep these tips in mind:
- Save time by organizing tools and tiles before starting. Lay out tiles and tools within easy reach.
- Use a high-quality wet saw for clean, precise cuts — especially for porcelain tiles.
- Mix small batches of mortar and grout. This prevents drying out before use.
- Check for level frequently with a spirit level as you lay tiles.
- Work in small sections. This ensures the mortar doesn’t dry before you place the tiles.
- Minimize breakage. Always cut tiles slowly and wear safety glasses.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Tile Flooring
Even experienced DIYers can make these common errors:
- Skipping subfloor leveling. An uneven subfloor can cause cracked tiles and uneven lines.
- Forgetting spacers. Inconsistent grout lines lead to an unprofessional look.
- Walking on tiles before the mortar cures. This can shift tiles and ruin alignment.
- Using too much or too little mortar. This can cause poor adhesion or tiles sitting unevenly.
- Not cleaning grout haze promptly. Leaving grout haze too long can make it very hard to remove.
Do You Need Professional Help With Your Tile Flooring Installation Project?
Now that you’ve learned how to install tile flooring step-by-step, you’re well on your way to creating a strong, beautiful surface that can last for decades. But if you’d rather leave the precision work — like leveling, cutting, and grouting — to the pros, we’re here to help.
Our expert flooring installation team can handle every detail for you — from prepping the subfloor to carefully laying and sealing each tile — ensuring a flawless, long-lasting result. We’ll also help you select the right tile style and materials for your space and budget.
Contact us today to schedule your free in-home consultation and find out if we serve your area!
